Running aground
1The lesson in plain words
When you touch bottom, stop and think: check the hull, find out what the tide is doing and where deep water is, before you try to power off.
Stop and check
Select neutral immediately. Count heads, check injuries and put lifejackets on. Call immediately if danger is developing; do not wait for refloating attempts. Check the bilges for water, especially around the keel bolts and rudder. A holed boat that floats off can sink in deep water, so check for leaks before trying to get off.
Read the tide
If the hull is sound and conditions are safe, a rising tide may let you refloat. An anchor towards deep water can stop you being driven further on while you wait. A falling tide leaves you harder aground, so assess safe options promptly. Check tide times and measure depths around the boat with a weighted sounding line or boathook. Assess the bottom, slope, wind and waves as well as the escape route.
Don’t power off blindly
Full astern can drive sand or mud into the engine intake, overheat the engine, damage the rudder or propeller, or swing you further on. Try gentle, brief reverse only if hull checks, conditions and the escape route make refloating safe. Check the propeller is clear and watch the cooling water. Usually the safest route is back the way you came.
Getting off
Draught is the vertical distance from the waterline to the boat’s deepest point. If hull and rig are sound, gentle heel (sideways lean) may reduce a single fin keel’s vertical reach; on twin-keel boats it can increase draught. Keep crew secure on deck and the rudder clear. A kedge is an anchor carried towards deep water by dinghy, if safe, then hauled on to pull you off. Remove heavy loose gear safely. For a tow, agree signals and stopping; use sound strong points and keep clear of loaded lines.
Drying out
Drying out means resting on the bottom as the tide falls. An unsupported fin-keeler may fall onto its side. Assess hull suitability, support, resting side, bottom, slope and waves; seek help early if unsure. If safe, anchor towards deep water, secure gear and protect the hull. Stop the engine before closing seacocks. Secure vulnerable openings; keep an escape route. Watch throughout: openings may submerge before lift-off. Once afloat, recheck for leaks. Reopen the cooling intake before restarting; confirm cooling-water flow immediately after starting.
2Step by step
If you run aground
- 1
Select neutral immediately, check people and put lifejackets on. Call immediately if danger is developing: Mayday for grave and imminent danger needing immediate assistance; Pan-Pan for urgent safety help below distress level.
People come first and assistance takes time; do not wait for refloating attempts.
- 2
Check the bilges, keel area and rudder for leaks and damage before trying to refloat.
A holed boat can sink once it floats into deep water.
- 3
Check tide, surrounding depths, bottom, exposure and the escape route.
Rising water may help if waiting is safe; falling water may leave you harder aground.
- 4
Only if safe, lay out an anchor towards deep water.
It can stop wind and waves pushing you further on and provide something to haul on.
- 5
Only if hull checks, conditions and the escape route allow, try lightening or kedging; use controlled heeling only if suitable for your keel configuration. Use gentle reverse only with a clear propeller and cooling water flowing. Otherwise seek help and assess safe drying out.
Refloating must be safe; heeling can increase draught on twin-keel boats. Full astern can choke the intake or damage the rudder and propeller.
- 6
If drying out safely, stop the engine before closing seacocks; secure vulnerable openings and monitor through refloating. Once afloat, check bilges, keel and rudder again. Reopen the engine cooling intake before restarting; confirm cooling-water flow immediately after starting.
Openings may submerge before lift-off, and leaks may appear once afloat. Running without cooling water can damage the engine and exhaust.
3Key points
- 1
Check people and the hull before trying to refloat.
- 2
Rising water may help if waiting is safe; falling water may leave you harder aground.
- 3
Don’t power off blindly: sand in the intake, rudder damage.
- 4
Heel only if suitable for your keel; keep crew secure and rudder clear. Kedge towards deep water.
- 5
Assess safe drying out; seek help if unsafe. Protect openings and monitor through refloating.
4Frequent mistakes
Wrong: Give full astern straight away before the tide drops.
Right: Check the hull and the tide first. Use gentle reverse only, watching the cooling water.
Wrong: Once she floats, carry on with the passage.
Right: Check the bilges, keel and rudder again. Damage may only show once she is afloat and moving.
5Practice case & exam keys
Your fin-keel sailing yacht touches a sandbank one hour after high water and stops. There is no water in the bilge. A light wind blows you further onto the bank. What do you do?
Show the answer
Stop propulsion. Check people and hull; the tide is falling. If safe, anchor towards deep water and kedge off. Heel gently with crew secure and rudder clear. Reverse only if safe, with propeller clear and cooling flowing. If stuck, seek help early: assess support and a safe resting side. Stop the engine before closing seacocks. Secure low openings and monitor through refloating. Once afloat, recheck leaks; reopen cooling intake before restart and confirm flow after starting.
Exam keys
- Grounding: people and hull checks; call immediately if danger develops; assess tide, bottom and escape route.
- Rising water may help if waiting is safe; falling water may leave you harder aground. Assess safe drying out; seek help if unsafe.
- Avoid hard reverse: sand in intake, rudder and propeller damage.
- Heel only if suitable for your keel; keep rudder clear. Kedge, lighten or arrange a safe tow; recheck for leaks once afloat.
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